Bulgaria from West to East ~ Chapter 1 : crossing the Lands

After spending several weeks in Zhelen, I felt it was time for me to explore Bulgaria. Without really knowing where to go, but certain that I would find on the way, I set off with my backpack for two weeks of travel and explorations. After hiking to the village of Tserovo, I said goodbye to the summer colours of the mountains from the train window and left for Sofia.

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My roommate, Alexi, invites me to visit the city with him. We walk for a few hours, both amazed by the city’s architecture. Our paths then part ways, and I continue to explore the city until nightfall. I do the same thing for the next two days, unable to stop myself from moving forward in this maze of streets, each one different from the next, admiring the many architectural influences including Roman, Byzantine, Ottoman, European and Soviet. The city seems accustomed to the coexistence of multiple cultures, and I deeply love the harmony that emanates from these differences.

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The train then takes me to Plovdiv, one of the oldest cities in Europe, which has witnessed many civilisations. There, I spend my days wandering around the old town. Its houses, built in the Bulgarian National Revival style, are true gems of architecture : their fine woodwork, colourful facades and flower-filled gardens are always surprising, and I love to photograph this urban landscape. I also spend time in gardens and squares, admiring people living their lives. There, I meet Yordan ; we philosophise at length before parting ways. In the evening, I climb one of the city’s seven hills to watch the sun set over the city and the nightlife gradually begin.

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I then decide to visit the village of Bachkovo, further south, in the Rhodope Mountains which connect Bulgaria and Greece. Here, no one speaks English, so I take the opportunity to practise my Bulgarian, learning faster through immersion. On the way there, I meet Mila ; we share the same bus and talk about travelling. I explore the village, its magnificent monastery and the surrounding mountains. On my return to Plovdiv, I meet up with my friends from Vegetarium for a concert in the ancient theatre, which is a lovely experience.

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Eager to return to the mountains, I go to the station the next morning. I buy a train ticket to Tryavna, a small town in the central Balkans. I spend some time on the train and meet Nicolai and his friend. We don’t speak the same language, but they are curious and we try to communicate as best we can. We laugh a lot, and their kindness touches me. They arrange to meet me the next day in Veliko Tarnovo, their destination, for a coffee. I visit Tryavna ; its stone and wooden houses, slate roofs and cobbled streets are very charming.

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The next day, as I am leaving, I meet Elina at the station. Our train is delayed, so we have a coffee and talk a lot. The journey goes quickly as we share many stories, before parting ways in Veliko Tarnovo. I meet up with my travelling companions from the previous day, then set off to explore the city. I find its landscape splendid : perched on the heights of the Yantra River, it seems to hang over the rock and weaves between the hills. I spend some wonderful days there. On the last evening before my departure, I attend a street concert, whose music fills me with both joy and nostalgia.

Maya